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A circular saw is your greatest ally during renovation work. But these tools are worthless unless you have a good quality blade for cutting. Are you looking for a good carbide blade for cutting for precise cuts? Follow our guide to learn all about circular saws!
Important functions:
When choosing a saw blade for cutting, note the following: The materials you want to cut (wood, composites, non-ferrous metals, plastics, etc.) will determine the cut or tip of your teeth.
Tooth type (depending on the material to be cut and the desired type of cut) and notch (the larger, the faster the cut), Hole measured in millimeters (mm), i.e. H. the diameter of the hole in the middle of the blade (can be reduced with reducing sleeves), Blade thickness in mm;
The cutting depth depends on the diameter of the saw blade for cutting (itself depends on the type of circular saw). And blade for cutting material (blade plate) and tooth tips (depending on the material to be cut);
The number of teeth (the higher the number, the cleaner the cut), denoted by the letter Z;
Number of revolutions per minute (rpm), based on the blade diameter (to be checked with the performance of the circular saw). Note that the saw blade for cutting has expansion gaps to allow the metal to expand when it is hot. Some logos and abbreviations can be brand or manufacturer specific.
Clean, precise cuts. Pieces of softwood and hardwood, chipboard, non-ferrous metal profiles, plastics, plexiglass. Intensive use. The degree of hardness of the teeth with carbide blade for cuttings; The higher the number, the greater the toughness of the carbide (stays sharp longer, but is more fragile). Tungsten carbide or tungsten carbide tips are perfect for hardwood, softwood, particle board and composites. They are regular use and chromed, and for cutting double-sided melamine panels, MDF. Intensive use.
The blades are serrated metal disks with a hole in the middle called a hole. This hole is used to attach the saw blade for cutting to the saw. You can choose a saw blade for cutting with a bore that is a larger diameter than your saw shaft, as long as you use a reduction ring. For obvious safety reasons, the diameter of the hole must be at least 5 mm smaller than the diameter of the nut that secures the blade for cutting to the shaft of the hole.
The diameter of the saw blade for cutting must not exceed the maximum diameter of the saw blade that is intended for use with the circular saw. Buying a slightly smaller blade for cutting is not dangerous, but it does reduce the maximum cutting depth. If in doubt, read the saw manual or check the size of the saw blade that is currently in your saw.
The blade for cuttings are equipped with teeth; It's the part of the saw that does the cutting. The blade with larger teeth is ideal for crack cuts. This is what happens when you cut wood with its grain. Large spaces between the teeth (so-called notches) allow sawdust to be removed quickly. Conversely, smaller teeth allow a better finish, especially with cross-sections. Of course, this has a negative effect on the cutting speed.
Note that the neck (the distance between two teeth) is more important than the number of teeth. A 130 mm blade for cutting with 24 teeth has the same notches as a 260 mm blade with 48 teeth. Generally, the blade for cuttings are marked to indicate whether they are intended for cutting, finishing, or a combination blade. Circular saws: type of teeth and rake angle
The number of teeth is insufficient as there are different tooth shapes for different purposes.
Alternative upper oblique teeth (ATB)
Alternating oblique upper teeth, alternating with right and left handed obliques; These blade for cuttings are common and multifunctional. These teeth are used for cross-cutting and finishing in wood and veneered plywood. Negative hook angle of these saw blade for cuttings are designed for conical saws or miter saws. The carbide tips tilt back to slow the feed. It also reduces the risk of kickback and improves safety.
:: Read more : The Unbelievable Circular Saw Sharpener
Flat top teeth alternate with cut teeth in the right and left corners across the entire dial. The beveled teeth create a rough cut and the flat teeth complete the cut.
Finally, the reduced rake angle reduces fiber breakage. The combination of these properties makes these blades ideal for completing work. Flat trapezoidal teeth are sometimes abbreviated as FT.
Nail-resistant or trapezoidal teeth
Waste wood or demolition wood can contain hard foreign objects such as nails or gravel that normal saw blades can break. The teeth of these special blades are narrower and are made of softer hard metal that absorbs shocks. These blades are perfect for dismantling wooden pallets!
The protrusion on the back of the tooth prevents the blade from lifting by limiting the amount of material each tooth can cut. Otherwise, there is a risk of kickback, which can be dangerous. These types of teeth are found on blades with larger gaps.
These blades are inexpensive and easy to sharpen - which is handy as they dull quickly. They are intended for use with solid wood. Less and less in circular saws, but in wood saws that are used to cut firewood, steel blades with a diameter of 600 mm are often found.
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